We had been planning to visit
Vietnam and Cambodia for a really long time but it didn’t happen. This October
we planned to visit Kaziranga National Park, which unfortunately got cancelled
at the last minute. Not wanting to stay at home during the Dussehra holidays, I
started planning a trip to V and C. The weather plays an extremely important
part when deciding to visit these countries. October appeared to be reasonably ok
– December being the best.
Jai’s colleague from School – Sushama
with her daughter Anoushka very readily agreed to join us for the trip.
The history of Cambodia is too
complicated to be understood by reading a short write up from a blog. It
suffices to note that at various periods of its history - India, China,
Vietnam, France and Thailand have played a major role in influencing the fabric
of its society.
The Indian influence reached
Cambodia through the land route via Myanmar and Thailand and over the sea.
Historically, India-Cambodia relations are a product of Hindu and Buddhist religious
and cultural interaction. The interactions between India on the one hand and
various parts of Southeast Asia can be traced back to 4th, 5th and 6th
century AD. At various periods of their religious calendar, Cambodians
embraced Hinduism, worshiping Vishnu and Shiva and at a later period -
Buddhism. Their temple architecture was greatly influenced by Dravidian style
of architecture.
Siem
Reap – 14 Oct
Figure 1 – Siem Reap airport – Traditional Cambodian
architecture.
After a very exhausting journey from
Bangalore via Kuala Lampur, we landed in Siem Reap in the afternoon. The
name, ‘Siem Reap’ can be translated to mean 'Defeat of Siam', Cambodians
call Thailand Siam or "Siem". The presence of various ancient temple
complexes has made Siem Reap a staging post of sorts. This temple town attracts
thousands of visitors from all over the world. Over a period of time the town
has developed into a friendly, warm and lively get away for tourists. The town
offers a heady combo of ancient history, breathtaking temple architecture on
one side and lively pubs, dance and music with exotic food at the other end.
We checked into the ‘Golden Banana
Boutique Hotel – Rambutan’. As usual our very dear friend Kshama helped us to plan
the trip to C and V – where to stay – what to eat – places to visit et al. Big
thanks, Kshama! The hotel is located in the historical centre of Siem Reap –
within 5 minutes walking distance of Phsar Cho the Old market, Pub Street and the
River Siem. Rambutan is a very special kind of hotel, full of old world charm.
The hotel is built around a small pool with lots of tropical plants and
comfortable seating. The rooms are airy, clean and spacious. More importantly
the staff are extremely friendly, courteous, helpful and polite – a very
welcome sign for any weary traveler. The management missed sending us a car to
the airport and was very apologetic all through – one hot afternoon they gave
us beer on the house to make up for it – cheers. Food served in the hotel is very good,
especially Cambodian cuisine.
Figure 2 – Jai, Sushama and Anushka at the hotel reception
with Rambutan fruit lamps hanging above.
Figure 3 – The pool and the tropical setting
Figure 4 – Rooms at various levels
Figure 5 – Another view
The weather is extremely muggy and
warm. It is best to venture out early in the morning, rest by the pool in the
afternoon – a bit of Zzzzzzz and then head out well after sun set. On must
carry enough light cottons, as you will end up changing clothes at least twice
daily. Carry sun shades without fail and pick up their traditional bamboo hats.
Figure 6 - Setting sun by the River Siem
After a good rest we headed out to
the old market area. The market resembles Sarojini market of New Delhi in many
ways. Apart from a few knick knacks and souvenirs there is not much of
shopping.
Figure 7 – The market area – very clean in spite of the
crowd
Pub
Street
After a bit of window shopping we
entered the famous ‘Pub Street’. Having gone through all the hype about the
place on the net, we expected a great deal. We were not disappointed in any
way. Pub Street comes alive around 2000 hrs and it rocks into the wee hours. The
street is full of pubs – each clamoring to get the patronage of the travelers.
Hundreds of international travelers dressed very casually end up here to unwind
with chilled beer and exotic food. Music, dance and merry making fills the air and
inspires one and all to celebrate and absorb this amazing atmosphere. The peppy
mood of Pub Street is contagious – nobody minds.
We had an excellent time watching
the crowds go by, listening to some really good loud music, dancing and eating
some excellent food. We wondered what fun it would be if Church Street, for
example, were turned into a similar place to attract tourists and local
Bangaloreans alike over the weekends; a no traffic zone with open air cafes on
either side and people walking on the road and lovely weather.
Figure 8 – The unforgettable “Pub Street”
Figure 9 – Pubs on Pub street, Anoushka, Sushama and Jai
Figure 10 – Angkor What? –Promoting Irresponsible drinking
since 1998 J
Figure 11 – Capturing the moment – behind them is the
‘Welcome to Pub Street’ banner
15 Oct – The Temples
– Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat was built
by king Suryavarman II roughly between A.D. 1113 and 1150. Encompassing an area
of about 500 acres, Angkor Wat is one of the largest religious monuments ever
constructed. Its name means “temple city.” Originally built as a Hindu temple
dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it was converted into a Buddhist temple in the 14th
century, and statues of Buddha were added to its already rich artwork. The
complex consists of a huge moat,outer wall, walk way and finally the temple.The
sheer size of the temple complex is mind boggling. The sandstone blocks from
which Angkor Wat was built, were quarried more than 50km away (from the holy
mountain of Phnom Kulen) and floated down the Siem Reap River on rafts.
The temple faces
West, symbolically, it is the direction of death, which once led a large number
of scholars to conclude that Angkor Wat must have existed primarily as a tomb.
The debate continues to date. Angkor Wat is famous for having more than 3000 charming
‘apsaras’ (heavenly nymphs)
carved into its walls. Each of them is unique, and there are 37 different
hairstyles for budding stylists to check out.
It took 30 years to complete the construction. To get a better
perspective of these great temples one should note that the temples of Hampi
were built around AD 1336-1570.
Figure 12 – Angkor Wat from a distance
with the moat
Figure 13 – View from the inner wall – see
the distance between the two
Figure 14 – The inner wall with a carving of Apsara and various other
Reliefwork
Figure 15 – Anoushka in a very pensive
mood.
Figure 16 – An attempt to capture the
enormity of the temple comlex from a height.
Figure 17 – The exact centre of Angkor Wat
– along with our Tuk Tuk driver – Mr Saya
Figure 18 – Photo op for Sushama and
Anoushka
Figure 19 – In the glory of Angkor
Reflection
Figure 20 – The long walkway connecting
the temple
Tuk Tuks in
Cambodia
The best way to travel in Siem Reap is by Tuk Tuk – a cousin
of our own ‘Auto’. Unlike our autos, a tuk-tuk is a motorcycle with an
articulated passenger trailer. It is extremely convenient to hire them for
short distances – generally 2USD for a short ride and 15USD for the whole day.
Four of us could fit in comfortably with Mr Saya at the helm.He also doubled up
as a guide with resonably good English. We used his services for two days to
move around Siem Reap. A ride on a Tuk Tuk is very comfortable,convenient and a
good experience too.
Figure 21 - On the Tuk Tuk with Mr Saya
Ta Phrom
In the afternoon we visited Ta Phrom
– yet another temple complex built around the same time as Angkor Wat. Unlike
most Angkorian temples, Ta Prohm has been left in much the same condition in
which it was found – one can easily say the temple has been swallowed by the
forest. Originally it was named ‘Rajavihara’. The Archeological Survey of India
has restored most parts of the temple complex, some of which have been
constructed from scratch. Large portions of the temple have been closed for
public viewing due to reasons of safety.
Figure 22 – A distant View
Figure 23 – Massive trees enveloping the temple structure
Figure 24 – Some more of them
Tonle
Sap
After a good lunch at the Rambutan
and some much required rest we headed out to see ‘Tonle Sap’. The Lake is the
largest fresh water lake in South East Asia. Its dimension changes depending on
the monsoon and dry season. During rainy season from June to October, the lake
is filled by water flowing from the Mekong and the surface area of the lake expands
to 10,000 square Kilometres. The Lake is also an important
commercial resource, providing more than half of the fish consumed in Cambodia.
The lake is located about 15 km south of Siem Reap town. One can do a six hour
ride in a speed boat to Phnom Penh, instead of road or by air. The lake supports
a large number of houses on stilts. These houses and other structures
constitute the floating village - a complex habitation system with hundreds of
people living in these floating villages.
The vastness of the lake is to be
seen to be believed. At one point it appears like an outing into the sea from
all accounts. Whilst on the boat and waiting for the sunset we were badly hit
by a storm and ended up having a totally different kind of adventure.
Figure 25 – The boat ride
Figure 26 _ The floating village
Figure 27 - With the setting sun and the approaching storm
Figure 28 – Look and feel – being at sea
Angkor
Thom – 16 Oct
Angkor Thom, the last capital of the
Khmer Empire, was a fortified city enclosing residences of priests, officials
of the palace and military, as well as buildings for administering the kingdom.
A drive through the inner perimeter of the city gives a glimpse of what the city
may have been hundreds of years back.
The whole day was spent lazily
driving down in the Tuk Tuk to Banteay Srei temple complex and Kabal Spein.
Tourists have to buy only one ticket for the entire temple complex in Siem
Reap. Banteay Srei is a 10th-century Cambodian temple
dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. It is
located about 24 Km from Siem Reap. The architecture is closer to Indian style
and carving is better than Angkor Wat. Kabal Spein is also known as the "The
River of a Thousand Lingas". One reaches the source of the river after a
very tricky and arduous uphill trek.
Figure 29 – Gate way to Angkor Thom
Figure 30 – Some more temple structures
Figure
31 - typical landscape
 |
| Figure 31 A - At the reception of Banteay Srei |
Figure
32 - Intricate carving at the entrance
Figure
33 - Square Lingas - unusual
Figure
34 - Temple entrace
Figure
35 - A group of temples
Figure
36 - On the way
Figure
37 - End of trek
Last
Night in Siem reap
We visited the
Pub Street once again to indulge in some more Angkor and Tiger beer. Egged on
by Anoushka I took to the street – literally and joined a pony tailed oldish South
American and danced away – to be joined by others in merry making. Three day
stay in Siem Reap came to a beautiful end. We will remember Siem Reap for a
very long time.
Figure 38 – Their National Beer
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