Sunday, September 13, 2015

We Visited Budapest 09 to 11 May 2015



Mr. Aaron our driver from Krakow to Budapest kept us busy with lots of tidbits about Budapest. He owns ‘Eurobusways’ – a mini bus company. The company owns a few cars, mini buses and vans and operates all over East Europe. Their service is excellent and very reliable. Being a small company, they are very flexible in their approach. On the whole we had an excellent experience with Mr. Aaron. In fact our van experience all through was very good. In retrospect, travelling by a van was the best option.

Schooling is practically free for all the children in Hungary. They pay 20 Euros per child for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Minimum wages in Budapest is 300 Euros. Hungarians love to eat and drink and according to Aaron – they do it in good measure. Russia and Germany play a very pivotal role in the Hungarian economy. Petrol costs Rs 80 to Rs 85 per liter – slightly more than ours. Hungary is not a very rich country but enjoys a moderate and stable economy.

The charming Hungarian capital is known as the ‘Queen of the Danube’. The city straddles both sides of the River Danube and comprises what were originally two distinct cities Buda and Pest. Buda is the older part with the old world charm and Pest having a commercial outlook. The city is undoubtedly the prettiest city in Europe. The history of the city can be traced back to the age of the Romans who laid the foundations of the city as early as 89 AD. Budapest, an extremely old city, played a crucial role in the history of Europe. It suffered very serious damage during WWII. After the war it came under the umbrella of the Soviet Block.

Budapest is extremely charming and instantly lovable. It reminds me of a beautiful woman who ages gracefully and with dignity, full of inner beauty. Its beauty and rich architecture is evident all over the city. The earliest city architecture has been influenced by the Romans. There are plenty of examples of Gothic and Renaissance styles too. The Turkish occupation led to examples of Ottoman architecture. Latter day Classical and Neoclassical architecture is also on display. Visitors are treated to a panoramic display of well maintained buildings, churches, castles, bridges, museums, parks and much more. Budapest is a delight!

What is most amazing is the fact that Hungarians have preserved the city in its pristine condition in spite of the age of the city, vagaries of weather and ravages of various wars; something that we, as Indians, could learn.

Budapest is best enjoyed on foot and that is exactly what we did. We did a combination of ‘Hop on Hop Off’ rides and a lot of walking. Like all other cities founded on rivers, Budapest also has a number of beautiful bridges connecting Buda and Pest –  - the new Elizabeth Bridge, Margret Bridge, Freedom Bridge and the Chain Bridge – one must cross from one side to the other on foot using any of the bridges. We stayed at the IBIS. The food is very tasty and the helpings are large. The cost of food is more or less the same all over the Schengen countries. We went on a boat ride on the Danube in the evening – and were able to watch both Buda and Past when there was adequate light before the sun set as well as when all the buildings were lit up after sunset. Sitting in a boat, cruising along the Danube and watching the ‘Queen of the Danube’ is truly a fascinating, romantic sight to be cherished for many, many years.

It was a great pity we had only three days to see Budapest.



Figure 1 –Flanked by the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art and situated at the entrance to the City Park, Budapest's “Heroes' Square” stands in honor and memory of the great leaders in Hungary's history. In the background - The Millennium Monument honors Hungary's heroes. It was created at the end of the 19th century for the thousand-year anniversary of the conquest of Hungary by Magyar tribes.




Figure 2 – The art gallery




Figure 3 – Palace of Art




Figure 4 - Buda Castle seen from Gellért Hill





Figure 5 - The Fisherman's Bastion, situated in the picturesque Castle District, is a romanticized version of a medieval bastion complete with beautiful turrets and ramparts.




Figure 6 A View of the Danube from Gellert’s Hill




Figure 7 – View of the buildings in Buda





Figure 8 – A city park




Figure 9 - The city hall of Budapest is a monumental Baroque structure originally built in the eighteenth century as accommodation for war veterans. At the end of the following century it was remodeled to house the municipal government of Budapest.




Figure 10 – View of the castle from a distance




Figure 11 – View from Pest




Figure 12 – A giant wheel in Pest 




Figure 13 – City park ice rink – a mix of the old and new 




Figure 14 – Buda castle seen from Pest. The origins of the expansive Buda Castle go back to the 13th century. The imposing castle is home to two museums and is a must-see for anyone visiting Budapest.




Figure 15 - The Elisabeth Bridge is a sleek modern bridge that was built in the early 1960s to replace an older iron suspension bridge. Near the bridge is a monument of Queen Elisabeth, after whom the bridge is named




Figure 16 – Another part of Buda viewed from Pest




Figure 17 - Hungarian Parliament Building 




Figure 18 – View from the river




Figure 19 - Buda Castle, Liberty Statue, and Castle Hill on the bank ofDanube River




Figure 20 – Kats pretending to be Amitabh Bacchan as in ‘Jhoom Barabar Jhoom’




Figure 21 – Navin all relaxed




Figure 22 – Jai enjoying Budapest



Figure 22 A – KM standing tall - Hop on Hop off

 


Figure 23 – Fishersman’s bastion




Figure 24 - Trinity column





Figure 25 - Gate to the entrance of Buda Castle in the old castle district of a crow with a ring in its beak.Bringing good luck to the city




Figure 26 – After a tiring day





Figure 27 –The Renaissance type of architecture places emphasis on symmetry, proportion and geometry. In this building some windows and ledges are false and placed there for the sake of architectural discipline.




Figure 28 – A random street








Figure 29 - This monument on the namesake hill is built in 1904 in honor of the Bishop Gellért, who converted Magyars to Christianity but was killed here by opponents of the new religion




Figure 30 – Lion guarding the entrance of Chain bridge




Figure 31 – Railway terminal building. West (Nyugati) Station was built at the end of the 19th century. With its progressive glass and iron design by the French architectural firm of Gustave Eiffel, the station is a favorite with architecture buffs




Figure 32 – Beer Bike - Peddle and Beer cart




Figure 33 – View from the river – approaching sunset




Figure 34 – Kats and Self

Wednesday, September 2, 2015

We visited Poland - Krakow 06 to 08 May


We left Prague around 0730. Prague to Krakow was a very pleasant journey in an 8 seater Mercedes van. The roads, which are in an excellent state of maintenance, some good signage and a very picturesque countryside, made the journey a very comfortable and satisfying one. We noticed very little traffic on this route and the driver was able to maintain a constant 140 KMPH

I had visited Poland – Gadansk in 1978, courtesy the Indian Navy. It was then under the communists and a proxy of the Soviet Union. One can see a sea change between then and now. 

The cities now are energetic and supported by a very vibrant economy. Poland's high-income economy is considered to be one of the healthiest of the post-Communist countries and is one of the fastest growing within the EU. They trade a lot with Russia and consequently the Ruble has a lot to do with the health of Polish economy.

We deliberately chose Krakow to be able to see Auschwitz and get a ring side view of what happened in these parts between 1940 and 1945 

Auschwitz - 06 May

A Very sad period for the entire humanity

We reached at about 1400 h and after a quick lunch embarked on a very distressing and mentally disturbing trip.  The Auschwitz concentration camp was a network of German Nazi concentration and extermination camps built and operated by the Third Reich in occupied Poland during World War II. It consisted of Auschwitz I (the original camp), Auschwitz I Birkenau (a combination of concentration / extermination camp), Auschwitz III (a labor camp), and 45 satellite camps.

Auschwitz represents the most decadent and bestial side of humanity, a story of unbelievable horror, murder and mayhem. According to the US Holocaust Memorial Museum, the German SS systematically killed at least 960,000 Jews deported to the camp. Other victims included approximately 74,000 Poles, 21,000 Roma, 15,000 Soviet prisoners of war and at least 10,000 from other nationalities. More people died at Auschwitz than at any other Nazi concentration camp and probably than at any death camp in history.

It is extremely difficult to imagine how a group of human beings could exterminate fellow human beings in a routine fashion without any regret or remorse.

Horror stories
Collected from the crippled and the disabled before execution
It cannot get any worse than this
Incarceration chamber

I still wonder – “Have we humans fully evolved as a species”?.
What happened in those concentration camps are acts so inhuman and so dark, one cannot understand how human beings could ever stoop to such levels; the scary part is that maybe they actually felt justified in killing those who were not of the so called superior race. To do it so clinically and so efficiently is beyond the realm of comprehension of a sane mind. What we saw left us without words to describe the depths of degradation, humiliation, torture and suffering that the inmates underwent.


Concentration camps
 
Public hanging posts
Entrance to Camp II
Open execution site


Finally some hope and redemption

We left the camp around 1900 h totally depressed and confused.

Thereafter we checked into IBIS KrakĂłw Stare Miasto hotel located in the heart of the city.

Krakow  - 07 May - Wieliczka Salt Mine 

After an early breakfast we went to visit the famous Wieliczka Salt Mine, located in the outskirts of Krakow. The Wieliczka mine is often referred to as "the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland." The mine is nearly 900 years old. In 1978, it was placed on the original UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites  The mine, built in the 13th century, produced table salt continuously until 2007, as one of the world's oldest salt still in operation. Commercial mining was discontinued in 1996 due to low salt prices and mine flooding. The salt mine reaches a depth of 327 metres (1,073 ft) and is over 287 kilometres long. The rock salt is naturally grey in various shades, resembling unpolished granite rather than the white or crystalline look. The mine features an underground lake; and the new exhibits on the history of salt mining, as well as a 3.5 kilometres (2.2 mi) touring route (less than 2% of the length of the mine's passages) that includes historic statues and mythical figures carved out of rock salt in the distant past. More recent sculptures have been fashioned by contemporary artists. The mine's attractions include dozens of statues and four chapels that have been carved out of the rock salt by the miners.


The salt mine tunnels
 
Art in the mine - tribute to the horse

 
Miner operating the shaft

 
A place for Jesus

 
The main cathedral- unimaginably huge

 
Sanctum Sanctorum

As we walk down well lit narrow passages one is automatically captivated by the sheer size and the complex web of the mine. The mine represents the better side of the human race – our capacity to work under most inhospitable conditions, our engineering achievements, our artistic impulses and above all our tenacity to create a mine of monumental proportions. The cathedral in the salt mine is huge and full of the most beautiful and intricate carvings; a unique and unforgettable experience.


Last Supper
 
Yet another example of human ingenuity
Humans are complex indeed.

Krakow

Situated on the River Vistula, Krakow is the second largest city in Poland. KrakĂłw has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish academic, cultural, and artistic life and is one of Poland's most important economic hubs. It was known to be a busy trading center in 965AD. The city is clean and beautiful, especially the outskirts. It is a haven for meat eaters and the food is excellent. I came across some delectable pork ribs – it was so tasty, I had pork ribs for lunch and dinner, day in and day out.


A typical house
 
One more example

 
A typical village scene

 
A well preserved castle


08 May - Zakopane

Zakopane, Poland's premier mountain resort is one of the country's most popular holiday destinations situated in the foothills of the majestic Tatra Mountains. Visited both in the winter for skiing and in the summer for hiking and camping. Zakopane has long been a playground for Poles and travelers from Eastern Europe. 

Zakopone main road

 
With the horse buggy master


 

Fr Bernardek footbridge- love locks

At first glance it is nothing special, just your ordinary pedestrian bridge. But as you are crossing you see all these locks attached to the bridge. Look closely and you will see ordinary padlocks are inscribed with the names of couples before they get married.


 
Jai on top of the world

 
KM and self in the rope way cabin

 
Tatra Mountains

 
Very happy couple

 
Lovely ladies

The mountain resort is very well connected by bus from Krakow. We did a one day trip. The weather, vivid scenery and the snow capped mountains - all add up to making the visit very memorable. Add to that a buggy ride and long transfers in cable cars; it was a day well spent.